by Rabbits can be used to produce not only meat, but also valuable fur material. Skins are in demand in sewing many items of haberdashery, clothing, and decor.
It is important to remember that the cost and quality of fur depends on the dressing. It is important to carry out the procedure according to certain rules.
We will discuss how to properly tan rabbit skins in this article.
Where to start?
There are three criteria that help to get started with rabbit skins on the right foot:
Breed
The most expensive material is provided by the white giant, chinchilla, and black-brown rabbits. These hybrids are specially bred to obtain thick, high-quality fur.
Grey giants and similar breeds are suitable for skins when they are grown to produce dense fur. The main trick in this case is a vitamin-rich diet.
Time of slaughter
The best skins for dressing are those of young animals aged 8-9 months, when the skin is fully formed. Killing is carried out from November to March, taking into account the molt.
If the process of changing the undercoat is not completed, the fur will come out of the skin and the material will quickly become bald. Adult individuals are slaughtered after reaching the desired weight (3-5 kg, depending on the breed). Old rabbits are not used due to the coarseness and fragility of the hair.
Method of slaughter
To preserve fur, do not use methods that involve physical damage to the skin and an abundance of blood. They also try to avoid the electric option – it can scorch and weaken the fur.
Air embolism, French method are preferred. A blow with a stick or the edge of the palm behind the ears is used if one is confident in the ability to avoid hematomas.
How to remove the skin?
Before dressing, the skin and fur must be removed from the carcass. The procedure often causes difficulties for beginners. With experience, it ceases to be a problem, and begins to be done quickly and neatly.
It is best to do this immediately after bleeding is complete, before the rabbit becomes stiff.
The fabric must come out whole, so the animal is “undressed” in a stocking manner. The carcass is hung by the hind legs on a spreader with its head down.
Next, proceed step by step:
- Make cuts with a sharp knife around the circumference of the hind legs near the hocks. Then cut the skin along the inside of the shin and perineum. The result is an arched strip. The tail is chopped off.
- The skin begins to be pulled down, carefully tucking it in like a sweater. Small “stitches” are made with a blade around the genitals and tailbone to avoid damaging the intestines and bladder.
- When the skin is removed down to the front legs, there are two possible scenarios. The first one suggests sticking your fingers inside the limbs, breaking the joints and separating the meat from the skin there. The second method is easier – it is enough to chop off the front legs or make circular cuts similar to the back legs. On the thighs, it may be necessary to slightly cut the ligaments that hold the flesh and skin together.
- The stocking is pulled up to the back of the head and separate from the rest of the head with a circular cut. If it is necessary to remove the cloth, including the muzzle, make cuts around the eyes, mouth, nose. The ears are amputated. Pull the skin to the end, helping with your fingers underneath it.
It is important not to overtighten or tear the skin.
Processing of removed skin
Immediately after skinning, the skin should be scraped off pieces of meat and fat. It is much more difficult to clean the dried surface from these remains.
You can’t leave a layer, otherwise the material will quickly start to rot. It is also necessary to remove large debris from the wool.
For cleaning from the inside, it is convenient to use a blunt knife and your own hands.
It is better to stretch the canvas on a thick wooden beam (blank). The movements are carried out in a circle. Warm muscles and fat layer will be easily removed.
If any tears appear, they can be carefully stitched up.
The dressing can be started immediately or dried for processing at a convenient time. Drying is carried out on a straightener in a ventilated room.
The temperature should not exceed 30°C. Some farmers freeze fresh skins, but this is also considered undesirable.
Overdrying and overcooling will make the skin brittle and can damage the pile. Dampness will lead to mold formation. The duration of the process is individual.
It is determined empirically. The canvas becomes completely dry, quite hard and slightly crunchy. On average, the procedure takes 2-3 days.
Primarily processed specimens are wiped with a rag or sawdust. Then they can be stored in dense, dry, well-closed boxes and bags.
To protect against moths, you can put naphthalene or its analogue wrapped in cloth. It is not recommended to store it for too long. It is advisable to start further dressing no later than a month later.
Some farmers additionally sort by size and thickness. This helps to soak the material evenly in the solution later.
If the dressing is to be done “hot on the heels”, then the straightened skin can be sprinkled with salt while the materials are being prepared. This is also done when several fresh canvases need to be processed in a row.
How to stretch the skin?
A wedge-shaped straightener is chosen. A sliding design is also an excellent option – it will help to maintain the shape better, since it can be narrowed and expanded to fit the size of a specific skin.
When tensioning, several rules are observed:
- Fur inside. The hair is smoothed a little, the fabric is put on inside out, with the skin facing out;
- Moderate stretching. There should be no folds or creases. At the same time, you should not overdo it (hair will become sparse) or underdo it (the material will gather too much and noticeably lose its size);
- Securing the edge. The lower end is attached to the ruler with a staple or nailed with a couple of nails so that it does not twist during the drying process;
- Size of the ruler. For a rabbit, the standard equipment used is 80-100 cm high, the base width is 27-30 cm, the top width is 0,5-0,75 cm.
How to prepare skins at home?
Dressing is a set of operations that a raw skin with fur undergoes. The result is a material suitable for sewing products and their subsequent wearing.
The procedure is labor-intensive and requires certain skills. Not everyone can complete the treatment without torn areas the first time.
Patience and practical experience invariably lead to a positive outcome if the dressing is carried out according to a certain algorithm.
The technology of dressing rabbit skin includes three consecutive parts: preparatory.
This includes soaking, fat removal, fleshing; dressing. Consists of pickling, tanning and fattening of leather; finishing. Final processing with drying, dyeing, combing of hair.
All stages are extremely important. It is definitely not recommended to skip or shorten their duration. Long-lasting high-quality canvases can only be obtained by following the entire technology.
Tools and materials
Before starting work, chemicals should be prepared. Their choice depends on the capabilities and personal preferences of the processor.
The options will be discussed in the descriptions of the stages themselves.
In addition to these, you will need:
- sharp and dull knives;
- salt;
- ruler (sliding);
- bark, branches from willow or pine;
- large basins, pots made of glass or enamel;
- protective gloves, apron;
- blank or table top.
Step-by-step instructions, stages
The dressing of dried cloths should always begin with soaking. This will return them to their original softness. Northern peoples do this with milk and rubbing.
Small areas of the material are sprayed and wiped with your hand (similar to shaking debris off your trousers).
Then they are carefully rubbed literally centimeter by centimeter, simultaneously removing the films from the skin. Such skin becomes very soft, but the process takes a long time, requires a lot of effort.
Modern farmers often use warm water with chemicals. At the same time, a short soak is done even for fresh skins, so that the skin is easier to clean and the fabric becomes more elastic.
Step 1 – Soaking
Soaking in water helps soften the material. The use of chemicals helps to carry out the first antibacterial treatment.
Dried skins are kept only in a solution with an antiseptic (against rot) and for at least 12 hours.
Fresh enough 3-5 hours and you can take clean water 25°C (but antiseptic is preferable). For 1 kg of canvases calculate 3 liters of liquid. The solution should rise above the skins by 2-5 cm.
For this amount, take 150 g of table salt or 6 g of zinc chloride and sodium bisulfite. Additionally, you can add 1,5-2 g of formalin.
According to the second option, 150 g of salt is mixed with 90 g of borax and 6 g of carbolic acid crystals.
The skins are folded evenly and pressed down with a small weight for the first half hour to prevent them from floating (then the weight is removed).
When the fabrics have become completely soft, have begun to float freely, and the residual fat is separated from the flesh side without any extra effort, the operation is finished.
The material is slightly squeezed out, the solution is drained. During the process, you can stir the liquid and change it several times, especially if the step lasts more than half a day.
Step 2 – fleshing
The skins are folded evenly and pressed down with a small weight for the first half hour to prevent them from floating (then the weight is removed).
When the fabrics have become completely soft, have begun to float freely, and the residual fat is separated from the flesh side without any extra effort, the operation is finished.
The material is slightly squeezed out, the solution is drained. During the process, you can stir the liquid and change it several times, especially if the step lasts more than half a day.
Scraping movements with a blunt knife are made from the bottom up. The center is from the tail to the head, the sides are from the back to the stomach. It is convenient to use a steel brush. The main thing is not to press on the tool so as not to tear the skin.
The stage is completed by lightly tapping the knife handle over the entire surface (breaking).
Modern technologies offer fleshing machines with magnetic and electric drives. Such a tool greatly speeds up the process.
Step 3 – Degreasing
Next, you need to wash in water with toilet soap, washing powder or regular shampoo. Powder takes the longest to wash out, so the other two options are preferable.
For each liter of water, take 25 g of soap (shampoo) or 1,5-2 kg of powder.
Place the canvases in a warm solution (25°C) for 10 minutes. Then rinse them thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry with a cloth.
There should be no household chemicals left on the skin – this will not only spoil the appearance of the finished product, but also complicate subsequent processing.
Step 4 – Fermentation and pickling
Choose one of the suggested methods. Pickling is a classic method for working with rabbit skin, but some people find pickling more convenient. Both procedures are needed to give the material greater strength.
Method of pickling
Prepare a homogeneous jelly-like mixture. Add 1000 kg of rye or oat flour to 0,2 ml of hot liquid, dissolve 3 tbsp. of table salt, 7 g of powdered yeast (dry), 500 g of soda.
This jelly is cooled to 30°C and the canvases are laid with the skin facing up for 2 days. As soon as the flesh side has acquired a white tint and the smell of bread begins to appear, it is time to take the skins out and rinse them with clean water.
Then let them drain.
Pickling method
Use an acid pickle of 1000 ml of water (35°C), 12 ml of 70% vinegar, 5 tbsp. of salt. Place the skins in it for 2 days until the flesh side is white. Readiness is checked by folding the cloth 4 times with the flesh side outward.
Firmly clamp the inguinal angle and run the sharp edge of the nail along the bend. If a white stripe remains when turning, you can wash off the acid.
The neutralizer is prepared from water and soda (1,5 kg per liter), the material is dipped in it for 30 minutes. Rinse with clean water and wipe dry.
Step 5 – Tanning
It is necessary for moisture resistance, wear resistance, and less shrinkage when worn. It can be done in two ways.
Chrome:
- 7 g of chromium alum per 1 liter of hot water. Keep the skins for 1 hours.
Tannin:
- Fill the container with oak or willow bark and branches. Do not compact.
- Simmer for 30 minutes over low heat.
- Add 50 g of water per 1 liter of water.
- Cool. Keep the canvases for 1 to 4 days.
Remove the material, neutralize with the soda solution from Step 4 (Pickling). Rinse with clean water, squeeze lightly. Smooth out and put under the press for 48 hours, skin on skin (flesh side to flesh side, fur to fur).
The readiness of tanning is checked under a magnifying glass. An even yellowish color throughout all the cells, a velvety texture of the skin is a sign of complete tanning.
Finally, you can lightly sand it with fine sandpaper.
Step 6 – fattening and drying
Greasing gives the leather shine, elasticity, and water resistance. A cotton swab is moistened with castor oil, glycerin, or fish oil. The flesh side is wiped with it and left for a couple of hours.
Then wipe the leather with a clean cloth to absorb the remaining fat and send it for final drying. Drying is done on any convenient surface or a straight edge with the fur facing up.
Air should circulate well. Sunlight and heating devices are not allowed. Shade outdoors or indoors with open air flow at low humidity is desirable.
Completely dry canvases are kneaded, slightly pulled in different directions by hands. The flesh side is supposed to be rubbed with chalk (tooth powders without additives are also suitable), and the surface is sanded again with sandpaper.
The powder should be carefully knocked out together with the resulting debris. The pile is combed with a brush with soft bristles.
The resulting skins can be stored for a very long time. It is better to do this in cotton or linen bags (cellophane is not suitable).
Alternative dressing options
Folk craftsmen have invented several more methods for dressing rabbit skins:
Fermented milk
Fresh skins are generously rubbed with salt, folded with the flesh side inward and left for three days.
After 72 hours, shake off the salt, immerse the canvases in a pan with sour milk (5-7 days of souring). Wait another 3 days. For 1 skin – 1 liter of liquid. Then wash, clean off the flesh, dry.
Fresh-dry
The removed skins are placed on the rulers so that the length is three times greater than the width, and secured with small nails.
The skin and fur are treated with a mixture of sawdust and gasoline, cleaned of debris and the upper layer of the flesh. Wiped with a clean cloth. Dry thoroughly.
