How to save cucumbers from rot in cold and damp summer

In addition to the threat of damage by pests, cucumber seedlings and fruit-bearing bushes are often exposed to infection by fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Usually the cause is a violation of agricultural technology (thickening of plantings, rare ventilation), and unfavorable weather conditions also contribute – in cold and rainy summers, summer residents have to wage a serious battle for the harvest.

Cucumber rot – white, grey, root – is one of the most pressing problems. Most often, cucumbers grown in greenhouse conditions suffer from rot caused by fungi. In a closed space, air movement is difficult, and temperature values ​​often exceed the norm, which leads to the appearance of diseases.

Cucumbers growing in open beds are less susceptible to rot. But there are also unfavorable factors that increase the risk of fungal infections – these are sharp temperature changes and over-moistening of the soil in rainy weather.

So, what are the main “fungal dangers” that threaten your cucumbers?

White rot

White rot can affect the root system of cucumbers, as well as stems, leaves, petioles and fruits. The causative agent of this disease is the sclerotinia fungus, which lives in the soil and plant debris, and is transferred from diseased parts to healthy ones by the wind, with water during irrigation or through contaminated soil. Toxic substances that the fungus releases during its life processes destroy plant tissue, which can lead to the death of plantings.

The main symptom of infection with white rot is the appearance of a light coating on shoots and ovaries, similar to cotton wool or flakes. The affected areas become soft, mucus appears on them, the leaves lose turgor, and the fruits of the diseased plant are no longer suitable for consumption.

The cause of infection of cucumber bushes with white rot can be one or several factors:

• thickening of plantings both in greenhouses and in open ground;
• high humidity at low temperature;
• watering with cold water (below 20-22°C);
• incorrect pruning and shaping of bushes;
• use of contaminated instruments during processing.

The mycelium of the fungus spreads very quickly – if you do not take measures in time, you can lose the entire cucumber plantation.

Root rot

It is not easy to recognize root rot – plants with the first signs of the disease look as if they were simply forgotten to be watered on time. Seeing wilted leaves, drooping lifeless vines, the first thing an inexperienced gardener does is grab a watering can and rush to “water” the plants, which further aggravates the situation.

Most often, this fungus affects cucumbers in greenhouses and hotbeds, although it can also develop on bushes in open ground, especially in cold and damp weather. In greenhouses, the risk of disease increases when cucumbers are planted in warm beds filled with fresh manure or immature compost. Even seedlings can suffer from root rot if the seeds or soil are infected with fungal spores.

To make a correct diagnosis, you need to carefully examine the plant’s vines at the very soil, slightly digging it up for a more complete picture. If you see brown spots on the lower part of the stem, darkening or fraying of the neck and roots, then you can be sure – this is root rot.

Damage to the lower part sometimes even leads to the complete separation of the plant from the root system.

Infection of cucumbers with root rot is usually provoked by the same reasons that lead to the occurrence of most fungal diseases:

• too low or too high temperature (the optimal range for the health and good development of cucumber bushes is 16-27°C);
• dense planting and watering with cold water;
• sowing cucumbers in unheated soil (below 14°C), as well as soil that is too dense, which makes it difficult for oxygen to reach the roots;
• adding contaminated or immature compost before planting;
• prolonged over-watering of the soil and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers;
• failure to observe crop rotation (with long-term cultivation of pumpkin crops in one place, pathogens accumulate in the soil).

It is important to begin treatment when the first signs of the disease are detected, otherwise the cucumbers will slow down their growth, shed their flowers and ovaries, the leaves will wither and dry out, and instead of a harvest you will get single deformed fruits of dubious taste.

Gray mold

High humidity and low (15-16°C) temperature create the most suitable “background” for the development of another unpleasant cucumber disease – gray rot. The source of infection is usually poorly disinfected soil, last year’s plant remains, untreated greenhouse structures.

The fungus penetrates plant tissues through damage to stems and petioles during careless harvesting of fruits, and attacks flowers through the pistil.

The symptoms of the disease are easily distinguishable:

• a fluffy grey coating appears on the fruits and shoots;
• the leaves become covered with brown or dark gray spots of irregular shape and then dry out;
• Infected internodes quickly rot, and parts of plants located higher up die from lack of nutrition.

The causes and methods of preventing gray mold of cucumbers and other crops are approximately the same. Choosing varieties resistant to the disease and following agricultural practices (sparse planting, regular moderate watering, maintaining a comfortable temperature, timely removal of weeds) will help avoid infection. We will tell you about the treatment now.

Treatment and prevention of cucumber rot

Treatment of plants affected by any type of rot should begin with the removal of damaged parts – fruits, stems, leaves – and treatment of cuts with fungicidal preparations. Trying to reduce the pesticide load at least at the initial stage, summer residents use folk remedies: wood ash, chalk, tobacco dust.

The cut parts of infected cucumber vines should be taken outside the greenhouse and burned, and the used tools should be washed with soapy water and disinfected.

The next mandatory step is adjusting the care and microclimate in the greenhouse, which involves the following actions:

• reduce the frequency of watering to 2 times a week;
• water only with warm water – 2-3°C higher than the air temperature;
• provide additional ventilation for the greenhouse or hothouse during warm weather (open openings on opposite sides twice a day);
• try to equalize the temperature in the greenhouse to comfortable values ​​– 25-26°C.

After all care errors have been corrected, diseased plants must be treated with a fungicide – it is advisable to start with preparations of biological origin, since with equal effectiveness they are much safer than chemical analogues.

Biofungicide Fitoblok from GREEN BELT helps to cure diseased plants and prevent the appearance of root and basal rot of cucumbers, as well as downy mildew and angular leaf spot.

The action of the biofungicide is based on the work of bacteria Bacillus subtilis, producing antibiotic substances. The drug is good because it can be used to treat or prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, showing high efficiency and low toxicity. Its main advantage is a short waiting period: you can harvest just one day after spraying the plants. This feature distinguishes Fitoblock from most industrial fungicides and allows it to be used in organic farming.

The GREEN BELT phytoblock can be used in several stages, which ensures protection of cucumbers from diseases throughout the entire growing season:

• pre-sowing seed treatment: prepare a 2% solution of the preparation (2 ml per 100 ml of water) and soak the seeds in it for 1-2 hours. Consumption rate – 100 ml of liquid per 100 g of seeds;
• adding to the soil before sowing seeds in seedling containers or open ground (mixing ratio: 3-5 ml per 400 ml of water);
• twice spraying cucumber bushes on the leaves during the growing season at intervals of 20-30 days (recommended dosage: 3-5 ml of the preparation per 800 ml of water).

The working solution is prepared immediately before use and used within 2-3 hours after mixing to achieve maximum efficiency. The dose of the preparation specified in the instructions is dissolved in a small amount of water, mixed thoroughly and the volume is brought to 10 liters.

It is recommended to spray the plants until the surface of the leaves is completely wet, while making sure that the working liquid also gets onto the lower part of the leaf blade.

It is always easier to prevent any disease than to cure it. This rule works not only for people, but also for “green pets” of all types and varieties. Follow the rules of agricultural technology, do not skip preventive treatments and enjoy a well-deserved rich harvest!